Rethinking fashion starting from ethics, raw materials and the real impact it has on animals, the environment and society. This is the direction indicated by Simone Pavesi, head of the Animal Free Fashion Area at LAV, which for years has been calling on the sector to undergo a profound and structural transition.
In his work, Pavesi highlights the limitations of “responsible” certifications linked to supply chains for animal-based materials: systems that often fail to guarantee transparency or genuine protection of animal welfare and are inconsistent with the sustainability objectives proclaimed by companies.
While investment in Next-generation materials, innovative and completely animal-free materials, Italy — despite its wealth of expertise and creativity — risks falling behind in a sector that could represent the heart of sustainable fashion in the future. Pavesi therefore calls for a change of course: effective public policies, structured research and a new design approach for designers and businesses, so that creativity does not remain anchored to outdated models.
This interview explores not only the animal-free vision, but also the economic, cultural and symbolic opportunities that fashion without animal exploitation can offer. A discussion that ranges from innovation in materials to the transformation of the very concept of luxury, to the responsibility of the new creative generations.
Why does LAV consider animal materials unsustainable?
The production of animal-based materials, even when “covered” by “responsible” certifications of industrial supply chain standards, presents serious ethical, environmental and traceability issues: they do not guarantee the real welfare of animals, they generate significant environmental impacts (emissions, resource consumption, loss of biodiversity), they fuel cruel trapping and illegal markets, and they do not ensure effective controls or sustainable conditions. They are therefore inconsistent with companies' commitments to contribute to the achievement of the Sustainable Development Goals (specifically 12 Responsible Consumption and Production, 13 Climate Action, 14 Life Below Water, 15 Life on Land).
What are the most promising materials and technologies today for completely animal-free fashion?
We can consider three phases in the evolution of materials used for clothing production: an initial phase in which materials of animal origin (primarily fur and leather, then also feathers and yarns) accompanied the evolution of humankind; from the 20th century onwards, petroleum-derived materials appeared: polyurethane, PVC, polyester, acrylic and other materials, all of which were economical but not sustainable; today, technological innovations are leading to the development of materials with high performance (technical and environmental) that are also animal-free. Nex-Gen Materials use a variety of biomimetic approaches to replicate the aesthetics and performance of typical animal materials, with different processes and technologies: plant-derived (derived from virgin plant material or waste/by-products); mycelium (root-like structure of certain fungal species); microbial derivation (using cellular engineering approaches such as cell cultures or fermentation processes to produce proteins and biopolymers) and even animal cell cultures (obtained through tissue engineering for the cultivation of animal cells in the laboratory).
How can we encourage companies to transition to ethical production models without compromising competitiveness and creativity?
Support is needed from institutions responsible for guiding and supporting research and development into new-generation sustainable materials. Unfortunately, despite grandiose titles, such as the implementing decrees of the “Made in Italy” law 206/2023 (see “Measures for green and digital transition in fashion”), the few public funds allocated are moving in the opposite direction.
How can sensitivity towards animal rights transform the way we perceive beauty and luxury?
Last year, LAV commissioned DOXA to conduct a survey to measure “The propensity to purchase animal-free clothing”: 63% of respondents in the six countries involved in the survey (Italy, France, the United Kingdom, the Netherlands, Germany and Spain) said they «strongly agree» or «somewhat agree» with the statement “Buying fashion products made with alternative, animal-free materials makes me happy and proud of myself and my choices”.
Consumers are increasingly well informed about fashion production; growing awareness of environmental issues and animal rights has changed purchasing behaviour over time, and the most forward-thinking companies have taken these issues on board, translating them into corporate policies whereby, for example, they have publicly discontinued the use of certain types of animal materials: fur first and foremost, but also other particularly controversial materials such as angora rabbit wool and kangaroo leather, as well as goose and duck feathers and exotic skins.
What skills do you think young designers should develop — or what “toolbox” should they build — to approach your area of expertise, as a representative of one of the possible sectors and fields of application of their future professions?
Today's and tomorrow's designers need to deepen their understanding of the impact their creations may have; it is not enough to simply accept certain materials as valid just because they carry ’sustainability labels“, which are often designed by the manufacturers themselves.
A project for the future…?
I would like to bring together Italian start-ups, as well as small, medium and large companies involved in industrial research, experimental development and the production of new-generation sustainable materials, in a dedicated event.
The Italian industry has numerous companies active in the production of sustainable materials of plant-based origin, from microbial fermentation or blends of these materials with recycled synthetic supports; however, it is absent from the international context of research into materials from animal cell cultures.
