In the busy schedule of Dressing the Future 2025 – the Milanese programme that combines art, fashion and sustainability in a series of workshops dedicated to circular design – the appointment with Marco Piu stands out for its rigour and practicality.
A chemist by training and an expert in traceability and environmental certification, Piu is one of the most authoritative voices in the Italian sustainable textile sector. His workshop, “Re-Trace”, scheduled for 5 December at Cascina Cuccagna (Filo Dritto Social Tailoring Space), offers a journey into the technical and cultural heart of sustainability: a path to learning how to read the material, decode the processes and truly understand what lies behind a fabric label.
«Digital traceability,» explains Piu, «transforms an act of faith into verifiable data. It allows consumers to know the complete history of a garment and to establish a relationship of trust based on evidence, not promises.». It is a vision that puts science at the service of transparency, overturning the greenwashing paradigm and restoring sustainability to its measurable dimension.
During the workshop, participants will learn to recognise fibres, evaluate dyes and finishes, and understand the impact of their design and purchasing choices. The aim is not only transfer technical skills, but reconnecting people with the material, rediscovering the sensory and cultural value of textiles.«»We have lost physical contact with what we wear,« observes Piu. »Recognising fibres means understanding their origin, their impact and their recycling potential. It is from this awareness that a true culture of sustainable design is born."
Marco Piu's reflection extends far beyond the laboratory: it is a philosophy that intertwines technological innovation and ethical values, including blockchain, digital passports and industrial symbiosis. «Circular design enabled by technology,» he says, «is the direction we need to go in: designing a garment already knowing where and how it can be recycled.».
With Re-Trace, Dressing the Future adds a fundamental piece to the dialogue between craftsmanship, research and digitalisation. An experience that speaks not only of fashion, but of a new relationship with materials, knowledge and time — because the future of sustainability, as Piu reminds us, is not proclaimed: it is traced.
Which technological innovations are most significantly transforming production processes in the sustainable textile sector?
Mainly three: blockchain systems for traceability, digital product passports (DPPs) and artificial intelligence technologies for optimising various industrial processes, such as dyeing and finishing, for example, contributing to the reduction of water and energy waste.
How can digital traceability increase transparency and consumer confidence?
Turn an act of faith into verifiable data, where consumers can access the complete history of the product: This creates an authenticated narrative that goes beyond marketing. The result is a relationship of trust based on evidence rather than promises, which builds loyalty and educates at the same time.
What are the main challenges in promoting truly verifiable sustainability standards throughout the supply chain?
The biggest challenges are related to the fragmentation of the textile supply chain, both in terms of geographical regions and types of production, and the costs of implementing valid standards, which many small and medium-sized companies cannot afford in the current economic climate. There is also the issue of skills and a shortage of professionals who speak the language of chemistry, technology and regulatory compliance.
What will your workshop consist of and what is its significance?
An introductory section on traceability systems, digital passports, certifications and emerging regulations such as Ecodesign. In the practical section, participants will learn to recognise fibres through simple, reproducible tests, or to recognise the quality and critical issues of a dye or print. The underlying meaning is to restore power and awareness in choices, both in design and purchasing.
Your Re-Trace workshop focuses on the theme of traceability: what technological innovations do you consider most crucial today in accompanying the transition towards a truly sustainable and circular textile system?
At present, we have an absolute need to increase the reuse of materials, so I believe that innovations in advanced textile recycling are crucial, starting with the breakdown of mixed fibres, which are currently almost unusable. I also strongly believe in the opportunities offered by industrial symbiosis to increase the reuse of textile materials. But equally important will be data integration: platforms that connect designers, manufacturers, recyclers and consumers in circular ecosystems. For example, a designer could design a garment already knowing where and how it will be recycled at the end of its life, or even design it with materials and processes chosen specifically for a particular reuse or recycling purpose. “Technology-enabled circular design” could be a slogan.
Between regulations, disposal protocols and social responsibility, what do you think are the main challenges the sector will have to face in order to make sustainability a measurable practice and not just a label?
The main challenge is to move from compliance to corporate culture. Regulations such as CSDDD, CSRD and Ecodesign are raising standards, but they risk being perceived as bureaucracy if they are not accompanied by a change in mindset. Then, of course, there is a lack of an integrated European infrastructure for textile recycling. I hope that with the entry into force of EPR, something will really start to happen.
In the practical part of your workshop, participants will learn to recognise textile fibres and their characteristics. How important do you think it is to rediscover a direct and conscious relationship with the material in order to rethink the future of textiles?
We have lost physical contact with what we wear. Most people cannot distinguish wool from acrylic, silk from polyester, and this fuels unconscious consumption: if you do not know the quality, you buy only on the basis of price, or fashion that we do not choose but is “imposed” on us. Recognising fibres means understanding their origin, environmental impact, durability and recyclability. A garment is a “warm” physical object because it always arouses sensations when we touch or wear it, and I therefore believe that this direct relationship with the material can spark critical thinking even in the most distracted people.
A plan for the future?
I would be very happy to complement my professional activity with training courses for less specialised roles such as designers and salespeople in manufacturing companies, but I would also like to contribute to educating people about conscious consumption, starting with the younger generations.
What skills do you think young designers should develop — or what “toolbox” should they build — to approach your area of expertise, as a representative of one of the possible sectors and fields of application of their future professions?
Basic technical and scientific skills such as materials chemistry, fibre properties and production processes. Knowledge of environmental legislation, from regulations such as REACH to standards such as Ecolabel, as well as circularity and LCA measurement methodologies. Thirdly, familiarity with digital tools, collaborative platforms and sustainable materials databases. Finally, systemic thinking, knowing how to see the supply chain as a whole, not just the final product. I believe that curiosity and a critical temperament are already inherent in someone who wants to be a designer, right? I believe that tomorrow's designers will be like detectives, scientists and activists all rolled into one.
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